Kawthaung is the main border crossing point between Myanmar and Thailand, with a  population fluent in both lan- guages. The tourists milling  around are nearly all on visa runs from Ranong, Thailand, on the opposite side of the Kra Buri River. For those who stop off for a couple of days, it is worth visiting the Pyi Taw Aye Pagoda.

Standing on a low rise west of the harbor, this Mon-style stupa  is set in a compound with gleam- ing ceramic floors. The interior  features dazzling glass mosaics.