The area of sandy scrub beside the bend in the river, known as Old Bagan, formed the hub of the medieval city. Traces of the fortified walls and gateways that once encircled it on the landward side are still visible in many places, but it is the great concentration of temples and stupas dating from Bagan’s heyday – including two of the site’s giants, the Gawdawpalin and Thatbyinnyu temples – that make this a particularly rewarding area to explore on foot or by bicycle. In 1998, the villagers who lived among the ruins were forcibly relocated south in New Bagan, so there are few oppor tuni ties for refreshment between the monuments. The nearest stalls cluster along the main road east of the Tharabar Gate.